Posts Tagged ‘yangshuo’

YangShuo-Backpacker’s Paradise or Tourist Trap?

Saturday, December 27th, 2008

Overheard on the street today “It’s nothing like it was 10 years ago. Then it was just a little village”

Today our little feet are tired from walking the concrete. We did find two karst formations to go up on but unfortunately the view was so cloudy it was hard to see. It truly must be mystical when the sun shines through misty clouds. But not today. And not in the forecast for tomorrow. However it is to get a tad warmer so we are considering renting bikes.  Besides, lots of the Chinese are doing it. 

rented bikes enmass

rented bikes in a mass

We noticed it takes awhile for things to get going here. 

early morning (10 AM) street

quiet early morning (10 AM) street

We also checked out the “agricultural trade market” and had lunch there.

dog anyone?

braised dog anyone?

our food being prepared

our food being prepared

We had pork, not dog. However, this place is famous for dried rat and beer fish. We have not tried either one yet, but the fish is on the list. Not sure if rat is…

view from bridge across Li Jiang (river)

view from bridge across Li Jiang (Li River)

 We walked a bit today and saw many other sights, including the 2 below:

gardeners at work (west side of street)

gardeners at work (west side of street)

store grand opening (east side of street)

store grand opening (east side of street)

 It is interesting to compare our travels in Peru with our travel here in China. Everything seems so much more “touristy”. Every street is lined in shops. Every other shopkeeper saying “hey, lookee, hey you, hey lookee”  ”Business is business and business must grow” said the Onceler in the story The Lorax, but it really makes one think about consumerism. Do we really need that many things?  How about another jade figurine of the fat Buddha? A silk scarf? A t-shirt that says in Chinese characters “I’m single”? Chopsticks set? Luggage? Plastic dancing zebra two inches high?

More shots of the sights we saw:

deconstruction to make room for new construction

deconstruction to make room for new construction

We actually got to watch them push a wall down with poles lodged to provide leverage. Physics is amazing! No wrecking ball was used in the dismantling of this building!

shop 'til you drop!

shop 'til you drop

We watched this couple enter a shop, buy a jacket, and continue. An American business man we chatted with today said that in the past 2 years the one commercialized tourist nature of the town has expanded beyond the one street it used to encompass to the whole downtown and beyond for all we know.

We did, however, get Hugh’s jacket zipper replaced for less than $5 thanks to the recommendation of where to go from the Yangshuo Flowers Youth Hostel “knitting club” -the young women working here are knitting whenever they are not working! Knitting may possibly be one of two true “handicrafts” here. 

family car

family car

Guilin to YangShuo via the Li River

Friday, December 26th, 2008

Back in the dirtbag scene and it feels comfortable. Guilin Flowers Youth Hostel was our first night’s stay. Guilin is also Cathy’s hometown and she approved the youth hostel for us as well as reserved a room there and at its sister hostel in YangShou. So, today we took a river boat 4 hours down the Li River. We chose to take the Chinese tour for 2 reasons- the woman at the youth hostel said even if you pay for the non-Chinese tour there is no guarantee that you will get an English speaking guide-they might instead speak Spanish AND it cost more than the Chinese tour. Maybe you got life jackets, but we don’t know as we went on the Chinese one. As did a German couple! We ended up having a great time with Bernadette & Orhan. And if you are German and reading this and saying “Orhan es nicht ein Deutsches Nahme” you are correct (& All German grammatical & case errors are Mara’s!). Orhan is originally from Turkey but came with his parents to Germany in 1980.  

So here are some shots from the boat tour:

cruise boat

cruise boat

We were on a similar boat.

river front shops

river front shops?

These are called karst formations. They are made of limestone. More information here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karst

local on bamboo raft

local on bamboo raft

Did we mention the forecast? Rain. So shots are more than just misty. A little sun would have been great for photography but it is still amazing.

more local river traffic

got a cigarette?

got a light?

 Once we got to Yangshuo, we found our hostel with just a few wrong turns, one “klingon” tout wanting to be our guide (she helped us take a couple of the wrong turns!), and we stowed our luggage and went sightseeing with Bernadette & Orhan.

Orhan, the master haggler

Orhan, the master haggler

See the old Chinese man on the left? He was a spectator as Orhan went from 1 Chinese coin for 60 yuan to 10 coins for 30 yuan. He then followed Orhan around, perhaps waiting for another incredible show of the Turkish skills. Orhan tells us “It is not in the DNA, it is knowing the value first.”