Archive for the ‘Tuolumne Meadows’ Category

A chilly winter day in Zhouzhaung

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Today we were treated to visit to the tourist destination of Zhouzhaung. It is “An ancient town in the south of the Yangtse” according to our brochure. Located between Suzhou and Shanghai it has tried to preserve the historical structures from 900 years ago. It “showcases the architecture of the Ming (1368-1644) & Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.” It took us an hour and half to get there. We left at 7:30 and it was 0 degrees Celsius out (figure it out, Westerners, it ain’t that hard to convert to metric!). By lunch it had jumped to 7C in the sun (but the shade still had frozen ice!) however that did not stop us from seeing this canal town that had been built on trading, including with India and Malaysia. 

These are, of course, tourist ferrying boats for the tour of the canals. It is said it is easier to get around by boat than by foot, however, we did fine with our feet. Being that it was a cold Monday some of the shopkeepers and attendants amused themselves playing badminton.

We preferred this to the incessant badgering of “lookee lookee, what you want” to which our friend/colleague/guide/translator said that a German fellow she had showed around had muttered in response “I want money.” The levity was much appreciated!

The “traditional crafts are practiced here” and I believe that indeed some of them are, but some are just factory made. What is interesting to us who are always shopping in Merced because it is cheaper than that tourist trap of Yosemite is that it is cheaper in the “tourist trap” than in Jiangyin or Shanghai! But, as Cathy pointed out when I was craving a silk comforter-you don’t buy here, you buy at the place where you watch them assemble the quilt so that you know it is silk and not something else.

Mara, Cathy, & our Driver

Mara, Cathy, & the Driver

 Listening to Cathy haggling was incredible! Wish we spoke Chinese (which is what they call it here, so you folks who think what was just written is not PC-it is here!). Cathy would then turn to me and say “Oh she said we can have it for 25″ (and the written price was 35). Sure makes me wonder how we could have haggled if only we spoke Chinese!

 

So, being that we know an archaeologist fairly well (Hi Sonni!) we do wonder how accurate this whole place is. One thing about the Chinese-they are remarkably adaptable. We have heard several times “Where there is a will, there is a way” This is so true for the Chinese.  So, one brochure says “The town is…over 900 years old, yet it remains as it were” whereas the other brochure states “The New City offers a pleasant & lively shopping area….Many of the shops of the ancient town are, or will be moved here…meanwhile the homes that housed these shops will be returned to their original purpose serving as a perfect example of Ming & Qing Dynasty architecture.”

However, in defense of the town, this was also written in one of the brochures “In the 1950s the Temple was totally destroyed but then rebuilt in a different location on the shores of Nanhu Lake in the 1990s.” So when your culture is totally destroyed, what can you do but rebuild so as to teach the more ancient history? And so where does archaeological and historical accuracy fall in this?

For those interested in further reading there are several opportunities to study Chinese history. One juvenile novel that Mara reviewed for her Masters in Education in School Library and Information Technology degree was Revolution is not a Dinner Party by Ying Chang Compestine.  There are plenty of others, so go read in these cold winter months!

Our First Summer in the Sierra

Sunday, November 2nd, 2008

 

Tuolumne Meadows; Horseman VHR, Fuji Velvia 50

Mara and I spent our first summer as National Park Service volunteers where we helped out the interpretation division while living in Tuolumne Meadows (Yosemite National Park). Some of our responsibilities included working in the Visitor Center, the Junior Ranger Program (Mara), photo walks (Hugh), Coffee with a Ranger (our favorite), and helping out with programs at the Parsons Memorial Lodge.

Parson’s Lodge after a summer rain; Nikon D300

The best part of our job was living next to Parsons Lodge at the historic Macauley Cabin. In 1898 the Macauley brothers purchased this 160 acre homestead previously owned by Jean-Baptiste Lembert. Here they grazed cattle and rented pasture to visitors passing through. Mara and I had it much easier than these early pioneers. We had the luxury of running water and electricity!

McCauley Cabin; Nikon D300

Parsons Lodge and adjacent Soda Springs is an amazingly important landmark because it is where the concept of the Sierra Club was first conceived. Also, it was here that Robert Underwood Johnson, editor of Century Magazine, encouraged John Muir to write about Yosemite in hopes of someday preserving it and protecting it from practices such as mining, logging, and sheep herding. This meeting took place around a campfire at Soda Springs in 1889, and in 1890 Yosemite officially became a national park. Later John Muir, William Colby, and Edward Parsons fought tooth and nail over the protection of Hetch Hetchy Valley. This battle ended in 1913 with the passage of the Raker Act (i.e. an act of Congress) which resulted in the building of the Hetch Hetchy Dam used today to provide drinking water to San Francisco. Parsons Lodge was built in 1915 as a base of operations for mountain forays and as a meeting place to discuss the protection of the Sierra Nevada and later the world.

Lembert Dome, Tuolumne River; Nikon D300

Living at the Macauley Cabin for the summer allowed us to become completely absorbed with Tuolumne Meadows as a really large back yard that can be explored on foot. Furthermore, as a photographer, the Macauley Cabin is not a bad location to explore. Forest, meadows and granite domes are all within walking distance. All of the images in this post I took using a Nikon D300 digital slr or a Horseman VHR 6×9 view camera. For many days I didn’t make any photographs due to sunny blue skies that create harsh, unflattering light. My favorite images of the summer were taken close to sunset or during unstable summer weather that created marvelous clouds and interesting light. Unfortunately these days were not as common as I would have liked. We had only two real lightning storms. Still Mara and I plan to return next summer where we will continue to explore, photograph, and wait for storms.

Dana Fork of Tuolumne River; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50

One problem with photographing in a place like Yosemite is being distracted by iconic images. It is important also to just look for good light. The evening I discovered this elderberry, I found this granite wall just glowing from light reflected off of Tenaya Peak.

Elderberry near Tenaya Lake; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50

One of our most rewarding days was hiking up into the Cathedral Range on a day of persistent, changing clouds. The best part of this adventure was the fact that we didn’t have to drive to a trailhead. Instead we walked from the cabin about four miles up into the subalpine environments (a.k.a. The Range of Light).

Creek Flowing to Tuolumne; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50
Creek Flowing to Tuolumne; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50

After making it to a ridge we watched for lightning and enjoyed the sub alpine landscape. The white bark pine in the foreground has been windswept for possibly hundreds of years.

White Bark Pine and Unicorn Peak
White Bark Pine and Unicorn Peak; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50

Our first backpack trip of the summer was to Townsley Lake. Despite a clear weather forcast from the phone and internet, we were greeted by high energy cumulous thunder heads that force me to take a two hour nap in our tiny single wall tent. Prior to the lightning show, Mara suggested we get closer to our dry tent. I assured her that the weather forecast said nothing about rain, thunder, or lightning and that this would pass very soon.

White Bark Pine above Townsley Lake; Nikon D300
White Bark Pine above Townsley Lake; Nikon D300

Throughout most of the summer, I offered a photography walks at 7:00 AM on Mondays. Usually, I find this time to be too late in the day to make good photographs. Ironically, the one morning that I didn’t have any participants, I ended up getting this image of sedges and clouds. I must say this composition has been ingrained in my mind since I first looked through William Neill’s The Promise of Wilderness.

Sedges and Clouds; Nikon D300
Sedges and Clouds; Nikon D300

In mid July I assisted with Michael Frye’s Hidden Yosemite Workshop. The workshop took place in Lee Vining at the Mono Inn. For five days participants explored the high country and the east side (eg Mono Lake). One cloudy late afternoon, we walked up Lundy Canyon while it was in full bloom. What intrigued me most about the day was how still it was along a lush sub alpine creek. While the entire group hiked on ahead, myself and another participant stayed. I have never seen Columbines that stayed so still, I could set up my view camera.

Columbines Lundy Canyon; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50
Crimson Columbines, Lundy Canyon; Horseman VHR, Velvia 50
As I finish this post, the first major winter storm is expected to dump snow on the crest of the Sierra and close the pass for the year. Just as people have done for thousands of years, Mara and I have migrated down to the Merced River Canyon for the winter.